+hick +ubes

After a looOOoong Wednesday morning, I managed to escape from my errands and ended up at my playground - Rick's Reef behind Palace Hotel. Fred was at the parking lot and some of his students ate the reef pretty bad. They were dressing their wounds as Fred rapped about how the surf suddenly picked up from chest-high to overhead! Ed and I jumped in without hesistation - I always regarded Fred as one of Guam's top surfers. He was right - classic conditions.
I skipped the first five or so waves and then it hit. a Macker creeped up at the right place at the right time.

8 foot face, glassy conditions - I pulled in and was barrelled D E E P - there's no other feeling like it.

Ed tripped out when a couple guys at the shore and the parking lot came up to tell me how sick that tube was.

sensory OVERload

I blink and three months have gone by.

I stand before a different, but familiar place. I feel as if I have regressed to the place I have come from. I'm back in my stomping grounds - back on the island of Guam. These last few months have really been about LOSS.
promising career
relationship
my new truck
band
hawaii
nothing compares to losing my mother and grandmother in two months. words can't even begin to explain how that feels.
.
.
.
.
.
instead of being lost, sideways, and apathetic. i've embraced my anger in such a way that has made me become more centered and at peace. i believe that these things happen for a reason, and a loss just leaves space for blessings to come into my life. i have no regrets.

realizations

.:trials and tribulations
.:it's like clock work
.:there's no escaping the facts that infest, invade, and perplex
.:but i can write about it